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Barrio Guide - In each edition of InSeville magazine, we take a look at the best each barrio of the city has to offer. Our current pick: The Alameda de Hercules.
Quiet Corners - Where to get away from it all without actually leaving the city
The Alameda de Hercules
InSeville’s Sophie McVeigh explores the Alameda and discovers why it is the destination of choice for the young, hip, and artsy
Having spent the previous year under construction, the Alameda is once again the place to be. Cheaper, more laid-back and generally cooler than the rest of the city, this one-time red light 
district benefits from its scuzzy past in appearance, attitude and atmosphere. Although the recent crackdown on the botellón, which previously occurred en masse in the central square from about Tuesday to Sunday, has slightly dampened its late night party atmosphere, it hasn’t taken away from the area’s unique ability to be both internationally welcoming yet entirely un-touristy. Some (in particular the local graffiti artists, who daubed the city council’s “Seville – the construction of a dream” posters with “Seville – the construction of a nightmare” during the building phase) may say that the recent influx of trendy bars and civic art is bound to change all that. But as nightmares go, the new Alameda seems to have woken up looking pretty sexy.
Beginning with breakfast
Start your day the right way in the Alameda, with breakfast in Piola (Alameda de Hercules, 57). Situated in the top right of the main square, this little corner makes the most of the beautiful morning light which falls across the now almost entirely yellow plaza, bringing warmth to your back even in the depths of winter. Here you can find the best coffee on the square and a tostada with tomato, olive oil and jamon (made with freshly baked bread delivered in a basket by a little man on a bike!) for the princely sum of €2.50. You can also brush up on your Spanish politics with one of the free newspapers, chat to the extremely friendly bar staff, or even play chess if your brain needs kick starting.
Bazaar whares
If you’re around on a Thursday, you shouldn’t miss the 
Calle Feria street market, purely for entertainment value (unless of course you are actually looking for a broken Sega Master System II control pad, that is). From fairly early in the morning until around 2pm, men bring out blankets covered in all manner of tat, from batteries that died in the eighties to bathroom tiles with boobs painted on them. Art from house clearances is also a big theme, so if your rental flat doesn’t have enough representations of the Virgin Mary already, this is the place to go. Amongst it all, however, there are gems to be found, like the perfectly fitting flamenco dress my friend got for a tenner, or the oil painting I now have on my wall that cost €5. And apart from that, it’s just a really good way to spend a morning, stopping for an early beer in one of the many bars along the route or watching the street performers who invariably pop up in the middle of it all — as I write, in fact, a man is playing “The Power of Love” on a trumpet 
outside my window. Reason enough for a market, I say.
If the boob tiles didn’t take your fancy but you’ve still got money burning a hole in your pocket, the Alameda is a great place to do your shopping. From furniture to food, this little corner of the city has everything you could possibly want and usually at better prices than in the centre.
The daily indoor market at c/Feria, 98, housed in a beautiful old hall next to the church of San Fernando, is the place for food lovers, with its enormous array of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and sea food. Besides this you’ll find stalls specialising in everything from olives to home made soap, as well as cured meats, herbs and spices, olive oils, vinegars and, um, lightbulbs. There’s even a bar out the back, La Cantina, if you find yourself getting thirsty mid-shop. One thing to remember is that service comes at a leisurely pace, so don’t expect to be out in a hurry.
What you can’t find at Super Sol
Another essential stop for foodies is Botellas y Latas (c/ Regina, 15). Run by a lovely man with a passion for food who will talk to you at length about the jotas in his jamon, this shop makes you want to take up cooking again just so that you can line your shelves with all its fancy jars and potions. They seem to specialise in cheese, wine and olive oil but in fact there’s not much you won’t find here, including imported ingredients for Indian, Chinese, Mexican and Moroccan cookery. It’s basically the sort of posh delicatessen you find in Notting Hill, except when it comes to the prices.
Unusual decor & clothes,
hard-to-find CD’s
Calle Regina is also great for home ware shopping, with the gorgeous Lamarca just opposite Botellas y Latas at number 14. Stuffed full of vintage style furniture, textiles, lamps, vases, mirrors, gifts, jewellery, clothes 
and luggage, this is the perfect place to find an original present or just something to pimp up your piso. Nearby is the similar Diego Camacho (c/ Carlos Canal, 32), which leans more towards furniture and original artwork, all equally beautiful if at times unaffordable. And if H&M doesn’t float your boat when it comes to sartorial satisfaction, the Alameda is also home to a more original breed of clothes shopping. I like Bastida on c/Peris Mencheta, 31, Beto & Claudinha on c/Regina, 17, and Espacio Publico on c/Amor de Dios, 38, although the tags can look more like electricity bills than t-shirt prices. If you want to fit in with the real locals, get yourself to Vedrios on c/Feria, 37, for the cheesecloth and ankle bracelets vibe at a far more bargainous price.
Finally, for music and all things related to it, Record Sevilla on c/Amor de Dios, 27, has everything you’d expect from an independent record shop – posters of Green Day, oversize Nirvana t-shirts, live dvds, badges with marajuana leaves on them, bags with marajuana leaves on them . . . and the odd obligatory musical recording. Loads better than FNAC and much friendlier.
Time to eat and relax
After all that shopping you’re bound to be hungry. Having done extensive research into the subject I can now officially state, with confidence, that El Gato Azul serves the best pizza in the area. So if it’s lunch you’re looking for, I recommend this little Italian in Plaza de los Maldonados, 5 (right next to Dia, just off c/Feria). Set back from the main road in a square full of orange trees, it’s colourful, relaxed, friendly and inexpensive (pizzas start at €5.50). But more importantly, as previously mentioned, it’s the best pizza in the Alameda, if not Seville. Light, crispy and drowning in deliciousness.
The afternoon is best spent people watching, sipping coffee in the sunshine or catching a film at the Cine Cervantes on c/Amor de Dios, 33 (Spanish language only), with perhaps a pre-dinner cocktail outside Republica (Alameda de Hercules, 20). Because it’s when the sun goes down that the area really comes alive. For dinner, anyone who’s been here long enough to know will tell you that La Madraza (c/Peris Mencheta, 21) is their favourite restaurant in Seville, which is why you’ll need to be there at 9pm on the dot unless you want to be joining a very long queue for a table. It’s the place to go when you’ve had enough of seeing the same tapas menu reprinted in a different font — their tapas and raciones are imaginative, international and, somehow, really good value. The only mystery is how they manage to get so many different dishes so quickly out of one tiny Seville-sized kitchen. I recommend the ciervo a las finas hierbas and the pollo al curry. For a hot date or if your parents are visiting (and paying), Naranja on c/Relator, 21 fuse original combinations such as duck with pears in red wine with Turkish, Indian and Morroccan influences in a sexy setting. And if you’ve still got room for dessert, the recently opened Freskura (c/Vulcano, 4, just off the Alameda) does delicious homemade ice-creams, smoothies and sorbets in flavours I did not know existed and the owner lets you try before you buy.
When you’re ready to turn siesta into fiesta
From there it’s just a short crawl to the many bars and clubs that make this area such a hang out for Seville’s young, cool and beautiful. Thanks to it’s prime position on the corner of c/Peris Mencheta, Café Central and its sister bar Eureka (Alameda de Hercules, 75) are the two most popular bars on the square and act as a meeting place for most non-locals. This does mean the queue for both the bar and the toilet can get a bit out of hand on the weekend, so if you’re feeling more imaginative head to the next door Corto Maltes where they serve far better wine. The Alameda is also the perfect place for a pub crawl, thanks to it’s concentration of cheap, popular and friendly bars, so don’t get stuck in one place and try to venture away from the Central crowds. And if you really want to escape the hordes, ask directions to Anima, which in my opinion is the best kept secret in Seville. That’s why I’m not telling you where it is!
The Alameda has a big selection of clubs to choose from after the bars close, and though all fairly small and over-crowded they have a friendly vibe and stay open ‘til stupid o’clock in the 
morning. First and foremost there’s Fun Club (Alameda de Hercules, 86), which always lives up to its name, particularly on Thursday nights when there’s a bit more dancing room and the DJ plays a lot of English and American music. They also have live music most weekends from around 9pm. Jackson’s on c/Relator, 21, is smaller and leans more towards house and funk – check out the random interior decorating they’ve got going on. Kafka, just around the corner on c/Faustino Albarez, 25, has recently reopened and has some good live music although the drinks prices are the highest in the area. And there’s also live music in Caja Negra (which is infact the size of a black box) on c/Fresa, 15, where you’ll find a slightly older and more relaxed crowd. And if clubs aren’t your thing, the Alameda also has a happening arts and cultural scene which centres around the Teatro Alameda (c/Credito, 13) and the Casa de la Sirenas (Alameda de Hercules, 30) where you’ll find a constantly changing programme of live music and flamenco performances, as well as theatre, dance, yoga, taichi, and painting classes. Check the notice boards for times and prices.
So there really is no reason to go to bed early, if at all, in the Alameda de Hercules. And before you know it, it’ll be time for breakfast again.
Quiet Corners of Seville
Sometimes the city’s bustle can get to you and you need a little peaceful time out. InSeville brings you the best places to escape from the city . . . in the city
Have you ever sat down with a book or newspaper in this beautiful town on a sunny day ready to enjoy an hour or so of peaceful reading when suddenly, the noise arrives? Seville’s noise should not be condemned, it’s a part of the way of life here, but it cannot be condoned either when all you want is a bit of peace! However, there are a few quiet corners around the town. Here are my favorites.
THE PARKS Although best avoided on Sundays and fiesta days there are still quiet corners to be found.
Parque Marie Luisa: There is a wooded-area where you can laze on the grass. It is away from children’s playgrounds and people wanting to “fiesta”. Nearby there are many small squares 
with fountains and tiled-benches if the grass is not appealing.
El Prado San Sebastian: If you find the sound of water soothing and relaxing this is the place for you. There is a grassed-area and many benches. The two pleasant bars in this park do not open until 4:30pm on a Sunday and 9:00pm during the week so before this time it´s very quiet indeed. On the whole this is a very quiet park although avoid when cultural events are planned.
The Real Alcazar Gardens: free entrance to the palace and gardens for residents of Seville. The exit to the gardens is through the Salones de Carlos V. There is a series of small linked gardens some with pools and fountains but over to the left, on exit from the palace, there is a large wooded-area where you can easily find a quiet spot.
THE CHURCHES These offer a place for quiet reflection or peace from the hustle of the city. Some have gardens where you can pass time and read. I find the problem with the churches is they never seem to be open when you need them empty. Some don’t have opening times on the door and certainly not closing times. So make a note of the times for when you need “divine intervention.”
MUSEUMS Several museums have quiet areas but my favourite is the Museo de Bellas Artes. It has several arched courtyards with benches around pretty gardens and water features. It is the second art museum in Spain but somehow seems to have been overlooked by peace finders.
CASA DE PILATOS This is a large renaissance house still belonging to one of Seville’s aristocratic families. It has a jardin grande (Big Garden) with Italian style loggias. A very peaceful atmosphere.
THE RIVER Most places of interest are on the eastern bank so the western bank tends to be quieter, although it does have a lively night life. However, early evening and during the day it is relatively quiet. On the eastern bank there are pretty walk-ways and many places to sit and just watch the world go by.
CAFES This is a difficult one! The quietest places I have found to sit and read and enjoy a cup of tea are the 4 and 5 star hotels scattered about the centre and the area around Nervion. You may pay 50 cents more but it is worth it.
I would like to know more and would welcome any readers’ tried and tested quiet corners of the city.
Send your suggestions to: editor@in-seville.com